UNITED KINGDOM: H&M is investigating 20 alleged cases of labour exploitation at Myanmar’s clothing factories. This comes just weeks after Inditex’s decision to discontinue purchases from the Southeast Asian nation.
The number of worker abuses in Myanmar’s factories rose from 56 in February 2022 to 156 in February 2023, indicating a decline in workers’ rights since a military takeover in February 2021, according to a British human rights advocacy group.
A report by the Business and Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) reveals wage reduction and wage theft as the most common allegations, followed by unfair dismissal, inhumane work rates, and forced overtime. H&M has stated that all cases are being followed up and remedied through local teams and stakeholder cooperation.
The Swedish retailer expressed concern over the new changes in Myanmar, citing significant obstacles in carrying out operations in accordance with their standards and criteria.
The BHRRC is investigating claims of workers’ rights violations in 124 textile factories, highlighting the country’s political and humanitarian catastrophe since the military junta’s rise.
The BHRRC has reported 20 alleged cases of abuse linked to H&M and 21 to Inditex suppliers over two years, with the latter refusing to respond to the report, despite sources including union leaders, international media, and local media.
Inditex has announced its decision to sever its connections with Myanmar suppliers following the announcements of Marks & Spencer and Primark last year. This move is part of a trend that some believe may worsen the situation for garment workers.
Primark has halted sourcing from Myanmar-based vendors, stating it is “very difficult” to do so. Despite boosting its presence, it expects final orders from Myanmar-based vendors to ship before the end of this year. Primark has doubled its ethical trade team, allowing more frequent visits to its partners’ factories and increased visibility. Some brands still procuring from Myanmar have increased supplier supervision through field offices.
Danish fashion giant Bestseller has increased its workforce in Myanmar from three to eleven since the coup, according to a survey by the BHRRC. The company is part of the MADE project, supported by the European Union, which aims to improve working conditions in the country’s garment factories.
The EU encourages businesses to continue purchasing clothing from Myanmar, where over 500 factories produce clothing and shoes for well-known brands.
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