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The Mystic of the Indonesian Traditional Batak House

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INDONESIA: Significance of Batak House in Indonesian culture! The Lake Toba region on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia is not just renowned for its aesthetic beauty but is also home to many cultural treasures. One such cultural icon of the region is the Traditional Batak House or Batak Toba House.

A visit to this unique-looking traditional house provides a surreal experience. At first sight, the traditional Batak House (also known as ‘Jabu’ or ‘rumah bolon’) evoked an unreal sense of an unearthly feeling, which immediately raised the question, “Can this be real, or is it an alien structure?”

The Lake Toba region and Samosir Island are dotted with these unique-looking structures, many of which are uninhabited and converted to showpieces.

The Batak house, which is a distinct symbol of the Batak people, is also a true reflection of their life philosophy and mythology. Historians aver that the early Bataks may have been influenced by Hinduism in some ways about the arrangement of life in the universe. Bataks are innately spiritual people like many in India. This seems to be reflected in their building style too. 

Batak
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The Batak house is a wooden construct made out of a special sugar palm fibre. Most distinctive in Indonesia, it has a large roof which is shaped like a saddle. This unique shape forms a shallow pass between two sharp jugged peaks.

The similarly shaped houses made of corrugated iron, possibly indicating a shortage of special palm fibre. The main structure is usually a rectangular formation that is firmly anchored on flat stones by large impressive wooden pillars.

The curator of the Tomok village explained to that the wooden stilts shielded residents from humidity and wild animals in olden times. The entrance of the structure is supported by two or more wooden rows of pillars, which are interconnected by planks inserted in between, providing overall stability. A natural enclosure is formed in between where livestock were housed in those days. 

A unique aspect of the traditional house is that it is constructed almost entirely without nails and stands anywhere between 40 to 60 feet in height. It has no doors or windows. It can only be entered using a ladder via a trapdoor through a raised floor or stilts. And no windows!

Batak
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The traditional Batak house typically has three levels, presumably corresponding to three levels of the universe – upper, middle and lower worlds. The top level represents the upper world which is the realm of the gods. The middle level (elevated above the ground on pillars) is where the humans used to dwell. The lower level was allocated for livestock. 

Another exciting aspect of the house is that the height of the door entrance was quite low. A guest would have to bow low before entering, which was seen to be an automatic sign of deference to the owner. Similarly, the stairs are built in such a way that the guest has to lower the body to move upwards. Such features were reminiscent of courtyard houses found in interior Tamil Nadu in South India.

Batak
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The Batak Toba society believed in ‘Hamoraon’, ‘Hagabeon’ and ‘Hasangapon’, a three-point philosophy, meaning riches or abundance, fertility and honour or social prestige. In the making of a Batak House, a harmony of these principles of philosophy was achieved by the use of decorative motifs and animal carving heads. 

Such decorative pieces of carvings of animals and birds are positioned at the ends of side beams for protection and fertility. The head of a large water buffalo head usually stares down from the roof, an indication that the buffalo head is blessing visitors with good things in life.

The Batak House is perhaps their most vivid articulation of the harmony of God, man and the cosmos. It also reflects their belief in some kind of animism. 

Batak
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Even the graves were housed in Batak-style cemeteries. Though just about 15% of residents of Lake Toba and adjoining regions still practice communal living in a traditional Batak House, the onset of modernity has rendered most traditional old houses in a poor state of repair and largely abandoned. In one such traditional village, some of the houses were rehabilitated for tourism purposes. 

The Tom Tom Village in Samosir is a famous tourist attraction, where a cluster of authentic traditional Batak houses can be seen. The traditional Tor Tor dance, performed regularly in a large courtyard for the tourists, was an authentic experience that reflected the way of life of the Batak people.

Batak
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Samosir Island, where the Batak culture flourishes, attracts hordes of global and local tourists. The picturesque island offers beautifully carved wooden Batak souvenirs and unique textile items called Uloos, which are prized by tourists.

Also Read: Indonesia’s Java Island Escapes 6.4-Magnitude Earthquake with Minimal Loss of Life and Damage

Biodiversity in Sao Tome and Principe

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: When German economist and statistician E.F. Schumacher published his book ‘Small is Beautiful’ in 1973, he based his thesis on the premise that “if an economic unit can stay small, it’ll tend to be democratic.”

Schumacher conceptualised that a people-centric economic model would enable environmental and human sustainability. On some counts, the idyllic islands of Sao Tome and Principe, off the coast of the Gulf of Guinea, measure up to this epithet.

For one thing, Sao Tome and Principe are the second smallest islands in Africa (1000 sq. km.) and are undoubtedly beautiful.

They have the most robust democratic credentials in all of Africa.

Sao Tome is a low-income country ($2100 per capita in 2020) and is trying to graduate to a mid-income country by 2026. There are high expectations from its population and international donors that Sao Tome will move swiftly towards industrialization and economic emancipation.

Instead, Sao Tome is attempting to capitalise on its traditional reverence for biodiversity conservation in order to serve a niche and high-end international market.

The importance of agriculture

Agriculture contributes more than 55% of its total exports. Such exports are spurred by just five high-quality products: cocoa, palm oil, coconut, vanilla, and coffee. Due to their perceived high quality, they command a premium in world markets.

This is especially true of Sao Tome’s chocolates, whose distinctive bars are appearing in many European outlets. In 1992, Italian businessman Claudio Corallo was the pioneer businessman who set up a chocolate factory in Sao Tome city.

Today he is known as the ‘iconic chocolate man’ on the islands. He has ushered in a tradition of single-estate, vintage, and craft chocolate production. Sao Tomé’s chocolate exports constitute about 20% of Sao Tomé’s total exports.

Decades of passion and care about the exact permutation and combination of ingredients and the chocolate making process have resulted in unique flavours, like the orange, strawberry, and chilli flavours.

The chocolate islands

The chocolate industry has spawned many touristic tasting tours to the legendary chocolate trails through picturesque cocoa plantations and delightful villages. Visits to chocolate factories and outlets are included, where visitors can witness the delicate chocolate making process.

Photo Credit: Pixabay/Lisa Fotios

They can also try each of the four varieties of certified organic chocolate made with cocoa from the iconic plantations. It is possible to buy chocolate spreads, drinking chocolate, and bonbons. Tasting sessions are also held to sample a dozen kinds of chocolate. It is no surprise that an Italian newspaper rated Claudio Corallo’s chocolates as “the best in the world.”

Organic coffee is another exquisite export item of Sao Tome (7% of its total exports). Just like chocolates, renowned family-owned enterprises have elevated the smooth Sao Tomean Arabica coffee to the world stage.

Though low on volume, its quality has carved a niche for itself in the world of coffee. Sao Tomean coffee is expensive because it has a specially refined taste and is in short supply.

Like in the case of cocoa, tourists are taken through a historical coffee trail, culminating in a visit to the renowned Monte Cafe. Located in the ruins of the oldest coffee plantation in Sao Tome, the Coffee Mountain Museum evokes intense feelings of nostalgia about slavery on the plantation.

Rare vanilla production in the islands

Sao Tomé produces a rare kind of vanilla, which is identified by a distinctive nutty and caramel aroma. The process of growing vanilla is a painstaking yet delicate process.

Vanilla beans. Photo Credit: Pixabay/gate74

Vanilha, a company created by an Italian businessman, is utilising the generational knowledge of a handful of vanilla farmers to perfect the process of production of high-quality vanilla beans, vanilla essence, and vanilla rum. As the owner says, “Vanilha is not about mass production; it’s a question of quality and patience. A flower is like a single bean, and it must be pollinated by hand, which is an expert skill.”

Coconut oil is another high-quality product. By no means a money spinner, bottles of Sao Tome’s organic and highly flavoured coconut oil are visible in several African and European markets. Belgian-French company Valudo rehabilitated the abandoned coconut groves in Sao Tome and is producing a variety of coconut products. The company was awarded a gold medal in Paris for their commitment to preserving the biodiversity of So Tomé and Principe.

Photo Credit: Pixabay/Tijana Drndarski

The production of palm oil in Sao Tome is an odd case that has courted controversy and protests. Palm trees grow naturally in very conducive conditions. For a long time, the people and naturalists have been apprehensive about the destructive effects of palm cultivation on the precious biodiversity and soil of Sao Tome and Principe.

When a Belgian company attempted to acquire 5,000 hectares for palm oil plantations in Principe, the local people successfully thwarted the attempt. But an EU-financed company is running a palm plantation in Sao Tome. Of late, palm oil has emerged as the new main export product, garnering almost 30% of the country’s exports.

Through a carefully balanced policy, Sao Tomé is trying to reinforce its organic and sustainability credentials by creating pockets of excellence anchored on five of its best natural assets.

For Sao Tome and Principe, the Shakespearean question of “To be small or not to be at all” is not as important as whether it can promote sustainable use of its ecosystems and promote inclusive economic growth and diversification at the same time.

Also Read: Sao Tome and Principe: An Ecotourism Eden or a Star Tourist Performer

The Moderate Face of Catholic Sao Tome and Principe

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SAO TOME AND PRINCIPE: When Portuguese explorers set foot on the empty shores of Sao Tome and Principe in 1470, they also brought Catholicism with them. The lush green twin islands of Sao Tomé and Principe bear the name “Saint Thomas,” as christened by Portuguese navigators.

Since then, Catholicism has gained a firm foothold with the increase in population in Sao Tomé over the years.

Population and the roots of Catholicism in Sao Tome

From being totally uninhabited in 1470, the population of Sao Tome has gradually grown to 220,000 in 2022. This is not an explosive growth rate.

But the population of Sao Tome and Principe increased from 65,000 in 1960 to 223,000 in 2021, representing a growth of 247% in just 61 years. During the same period, the median growth of the global population was only 157%.

The roots of Roman Catholicism in Sao Tomé and Principe are inextricably linked to Portuguese colonial expansion and the Atlantic slave trade. In their efforts to convert the islands into sugar-producing colonies, the Portuguese imported people from other parts of Africa in the late 15th century, who effectively became slaves on the plantations. By the 16th century, Sao Tome became the world’s largest producer of sugar.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

In the early years, the efforts of the Portuguese missionaries in spreading Catholicism among the local population were affected by several factors, like high mortality rates, the departure of Portuguese priests, political tensions, etc.

However, in 1534, Sao Tomé became the seat of the new diocese that stretched from present-day Liberia to South Africa, even though there was no resident bishop in Sao Tome.

Being geographically disconnected from Portugal, Sao Tome’s society and culture developed on a different trajectory in isolation from Lisbon and Rome.

Even though Roman Catholicism got firmly entrenched as the dominant religion on the islands in the 16th century, a distinctive creole society developed on these islands, mainly due to the continued influx of African laborers.

The smaller migrations from Portugal, including expelled “New Christians” (converted Jews), civil and political criminals from Portuguese African colonies, and planter-settlers, contributed to this diverse Creole culture.

Although Catholic clerics participated actively in the slave trade, they also played an active and stabilizing role in the factional struggles that characterized political life in São Tomé and Príncipe. 

During the plantation period of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the Catholic Church did not dispute the dominant plantation owners.

In 1504 Augustinian missionaries built the first church in So Tomé, the Nossa Senhora da Graça. This Catholic church, which later became the cathedral for the diocese of Sao Tomé, comes under the direct spiritual leadership of the Pope in the Vatican.

It became the seat of a diocese in 1534 and was reconstructed between 1576 and 1578 during the reign of King Sebastian of Portugal. It underwent more modifications in 1784, and later in 1956, it was remodeled with a Neo-Romanesque main façade by the people of Sao Tome.

As the largest and most important manifestation of Catholicism in the country, the Catholic Church of Our Lady of Grace proudly stands in People’s Square in the city centre, close to the Presidential Palace.

Since independence in 1975, the church has been run primarily by expatriate priests who have not played an official political role.

Our Lady of Conception Church is another important parish church in Sao Tome city, affiliated with the Catholic Church. Also known as the Red Church because of the red color of its exterior, it has a single bell tower and a statue of the Virgin Mary at the entrance.

In addition to the Cathedral, several other churches dot the city, with the most interesting examples being the Igreja da Conceiço, built by King Manuel between 1495 and 1521; the Church of So Joo, built-in 1562; the Churches of Bom Jesus and Bom Despacho; and the Capela de So Sebastio, built inside the So Sebastio Fortress in the early 17th century.

After independence, Sao Tome adopted a secular policy, mainly driven by the complex, hierarchical society that had arisen, despite Portuguese intervention and one that was based on several sociocultural groups. 

This complex society, which Sao Tome inherited at the time of independence, comprised the Filho da Terra (sons of the land), who descended from mixed unions of slaves and slave owners, the Angolares (descendants of fugitive slaves), the Forros (descendants of freed slaves), the Tongas (contract laborers), and finally, the descendants of Portuguese people.

However, the secular Marxist ideology did not weaken the society’s Catholic or other Christian orientations.

Though deeply religious, Sao Tome’s society departs in certain ways from Catholic orthodoxy and is relatively liberal by Western standards.

Major Christian holidays are celebrated. Baptisms, processions, and funeral masses are crucial, but Sunday masses and communions are not so central.

In the celebration of Patron Saint Day or other festivals, they combine religious ceremonies with adaptations from their ethnic culture. Weddings are rarely held in the church.

Despite their adherence to Catholic views about marriage, few So Toméans either desire or can afford church weddings. Though formally opposed, the practices of polygamy, polyandry, and childbirth outside of wedlock are accommodated by the church.

Although Sao Tomé and Principe inherited pre-independence Portuguese laws prohibiting abortion, in practice, abortion policies are more liberal today and birth control is practiced. Divorce is common even though it’s frowned upon by the church.

Freedom of religion in Sao Tomé and Principe is guaranteed by the constitution. While Catholicism has the largest following in the country (68%), there is a surprisingly sizable community of atheists and agnostics (19%).

Protestants, including Methodists and Evangelicals, are present in good numbers (9%). A tiny minority of other faiths, including Hindus, Jews, Muslims, and Buddhists, are also present.

The Catholic traditions were reaffirmed in 2018 when the Vatican signed an agreement with Sao Tome and Principe on the recognition of the Catholic Church and its ecclesiastical institutions as a “juridical personality” on the islands.

With frequent interactions with modern European cultures and the maturing of its democratic processes, Sao Tome today presents a moderate and pragmatic face to the world.

Also Read: Sao Tome and Principe: An Ecotourism Eden or a Star Tourist Performer

Sao Tome and Principe: An Ecotourism Eden or a Star Tourist Performer

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: The petite islands of Sao Tome and Principe may be one of the poorest in monetary terms, but they are one of the richest in biodiversity and virgin rainforests. It punches far above its weight as an eco-tourism destination.

Descending on these islands is like travelling back in time. With little noise and air pollution, being sparsely populated, and no traffic jams, time weighs heavily on one’s hands.

The serenity of the beaches is matched only by the lush greenery that drapes the distant volcanic mountains.

The languid grace of its people is synchronous with the idyllic surroundings and tropical charm of these islands. Many things are going for it.

Set on the fringes of the African continent, this former Portuguese colony with relative geographical proximity to Europe witnessed decent tourist arrivals from 2010 onward.

From just 8000 in 2010, it jumped to almost 35,000 arrivals in 2018, making this sector one of the major drivers of Sao Tome’s economy.

During this period, the contribution of the sector to the national GDP has ranged between 25 and 29%.

With the onset of COVID in 2020, tourist arrivals plummeted to 2010 levels, before showing signs of revival in 2022. The IMF has identified the tourism sector of Sao Tome as one of the main contributors to the GDP of Sao Tome.
 
Despite efforts targeting the tourist dollar, commercial tourism has never taken off on these prehistoric-looking islands. The stark insularity, remoteness, and smallness of these islands are critical limiting factors.

The implication of being small and disconnected is that Sao Tome can only absorb so many tourists, even in the best of times.

Policymakers would still need to build connectivity infrastructure to bridge travelling distances, reduce vulnerability to become sustainable, and create a critical mass to increase the efficiency of the sector. All these things have not happened in Sao Tome.

However, the most critical factor is that, for centuries, the islanders have developed a deep understanding and connection with their environment and natural surroundings.

Their traditional way of life has given them an innate awareness of the role of nature and the value of biodiversity.

This is a rare quality for a group of people to have, but it also makes it difficult for policymakers to pursue an aggressive tourism policy to create a commercial tourism boom.

For these reasons, Sao Tomé and Prncipe may never become mass tourism destinations. But it has all the attributes to become a high-end and niche destination for wealthy tourists.

Sao Tome and Principe can lay claim to several stunning natural physical features that rival some of the best in the world.

The pristine sandy beaches with crystal clear waters, dreamy waterfalls, lush rainforests, rich biodiversity, stupendous volcanic peaks, gushing streams, medicinal gardens, fruit farms, vantage viewpoints overlooking dense jungles, historical plantation sites, and museums

Apart from its unsullied natural beauty, there are several other intriguing aspects to these enchanting islands that can bewitch a visitor. Colonial architecture, cocoa plantations, mangroves, the chocolate industry, whale watching, turtle farming, diving and snorkeling, trekking, interesting cultural traditions drawn from its colonial past, quaint little fishing villages, plantation museums, and last but not least, the disarming smiles of the people are some of the interesting things about the islands.

Photo Credit: Pixabay/Pexels

When the entire island of Principe was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve in 1980, the need to preserve the precious ecosystems for posterity was reinforced at every level.

Principe Island is championing sustainability and is guided by the “PLUS” principle: preserving biodiversity, celebrating local culture, uplifting the community, and commitment to sustainable business and development practices.

In many ways, it has become the ideal natural laboratory and model for experimenting with green initiatives for the whole country.

After Sao Tome lost its glory as the world’s biggest cocoa exporter, many of its plantations fell into disuse. A few western entrepreneurs have converted the plantation complexes into high-end eco resorts, which have become tourist hotspots.

While there is a growing recognition at the policy-making level of the need to promote Sao Tome and Principe as a high-end, eco-tourist destination, there is also a growing pressure on the economy to diversify away from its reliance on agricultural exports.

With the oil sector showing no promise in the short term, it would be tempting for Sao Tome to push commercial tourism for precious dollars, which could come at the expense of sustainability.

Both the IMF and UNESCO are assessing Sao Tome from their different standpoints. As one of the major donors, the IMF has identified the tourism sector of Sao Tome as having high promise to enhance the country’s GDP. UNESCO would be monitoring progress on the preservation of the ecosystems.

In the coming years, would Sao Tome follow a “minimum impact, maximum experience” policy to make Sao Tome an ecotourism Eden? or would it plump for unbridled growth of the tourist sector to generate jobs and develop economically?

Also Read: The Enticing Waterfalls of Sao Tome

Sao Tome’s Unique Cultural Traditions

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: Tucked away at the far end of the African mainland, the remote islands of Sao Tome and Principe present interesting cultural traditions. In many ways, they have been largely influenced by the origins of different strands of early Sao Tome society and colonization since the time Portuguese explorers landed on these empty islands in 1475.

Among the other early settlers were a sizable number of Jewish children who were forcibly separated from their parents and converted to Christianity. There was also a small group of exiled convicts.

Upon landing, the first Portuguese settlers were confronted with the multiple challenges of an alien climate and diseases. With no farming experience, they could not produce crops. They brought African people from Congo, Cape Verde, Benin, Angola, and Mozambique, who were forced into sugar, banana, and cocoa plantations as bonded labourers. Soon, Sao Tome also became a transit point for the slave trade to other countries.

The Jewish settlers married African female labourers from the plantations. When a royal decree from Portugal accorded free status to all Jewish settlers and the African women married to them, they assumed a separate identity as the children of the land. As Luso Africans, they formed a core component of a future hybrid Sao Tome society. The anti-slavery law of the 16th century created the Forros, a distinct group of liberated African plantation slaves.

Hybrid European-Creole culture

The island’s diverse population heralded the emergence of a hybrid European-Creole culture. But the formation of national identity took concrete shape only in the 19th century, with the decline in the importance of the plantation economy and the gradual blurring of ethnic and racial distinctions.

The legacy of Portuguese rule is visible in the culture and customs of Sao Tomean Creole society at many levels. The most obvious is the Portuguese language, which is widely spoken. The Forro, the Luso-African Creole language, is also popular and contains many Portuguese words.

Christianity is the other major Portuguese influence, where the holy cross, the Trinity, and some emblems of Portuguese royalty are national symbols even today. Symbols of local African cults and rituals, such as red cloth, iron, and wooden dolls, have an equally important place in local society.

Unique blend of African and Portuguese cultures in arts

The performing arts and theatre of Sao Tome are classic examples of the synthesis between African and Portuguese cultures. The Danço Congo is a popular dance theatre form, known for its highly expressive choreography, colourful costumes, and almost frenetic movements. Usually performed on festive occasions, this art form was brought to Sao Tomé by Congolese workers in the 16th century. In those days, it was not so much favoured by the colonialists as they felt it was too crude.

Photo Credit: Sao Tome and Principe tourism department

Tchiloli, the most popular theatre tradition of Sao Tome, is a localised theatre form adapted from the mediaeval Portuguese drama of the Tragedy of Charlemagne. It was introduced by the barons of sugar plantations for their entertainment. 

Photo Credit: Sao Tome and Principe Tourism department

With the adaptation of some local elements, such as costumes and choreography, it evolved into an Africanized performing art. The rhythms of their other local dances were influenced by Portuguese ballroom dancing.

Similarly, city architecture bears a pronounced Portuguese character. The city is replete with buildings of colonial architecture, so reminiscent of other Portuguese colonies like Goa. The Santomean cuisine exhibits the influence of the culinary traditions of Africa and Portugal. Since the local cuisine has developed around the products locally available, such as tropical fruits, beans, taro, maize, fish, etc., the African influence is more pronounced.

But there are areas where Portuguese influence has been minimal. Sao Tome’s music has retained a strong local character. The trailblazers of Sao Tome music were the Leoninos band of the early sixties. Before its independence in 1975, the group was banned for a while for its perceived anti-colonial tenor. But soon, it evolved into a popular band and was considered the voice of the people of Sao Tome in the 80s. 

Sao Tome’s Rumba music, fondly called MamaJumba by the locals, is authentic, with roots in Mozambique. The popular arts and crafts of Sao Tome, like a landscape painting, wood carving, mask-making, basket weaving, etc., are purely African and bear no Portuguese influence.

One would expect that their close association with the Portuguese at a human level over the centuries would have totally influenced their social customs and daily life. That is not really the case. Even though the African tribal belief system coexists with Christian values, their cultural mores are more influenced by their African descendants from many countries. 

The polygamy culture in Sao Tome

Sao Tomé is still a society where polygamy is not uncommon and polyandry is widely accepted. There is really no stigma attached to these two conjugal arrangements. Other aspects, like households headed by castaway women, women’s abuse, cultural mores, loose wedlock, children born outside marriages, etc., characterize the local society.

Sao Tomean society had a positive impact on Portuguese colonization, providing stability and social order, which is manifest today in relatively healthy social indicators. Almost 40 percent of the total workforce in Sao Tome is comprised of women. They enjoy a lot more personal freedom and better social status than women in many other African countries. Female employment relative to the population ratio is almost 30%, while women represent 41% of the total workforce. While the woman of Sao Tome bears a lot of responsibility, she also has a lot of power in her personal life.

Photo Credit: Instagram

In modern times, Portugal has become a strategic partner for Sao Tomé and Principe. As a founding member state of the Community of Portuguese Language Countries, Sao Tome will benefit from its association with Portugal and its association with Lusophone countries.

Also Read: The Quiet Women Revolution in Sao Tome

The Enticing Waterfalls of Sao Tome

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: Anyone who visits the charming islands of Sao Tome and Principe feels genuinely close to nature. The stunning landscape of Sao Tomé and Principe includes numerous waterfalls.

Many of the waterfalls in these islands are nourished by the mountainous terrain of the islands and the abundant rainfall, which lasts for about six months.

The central highlands of Sao Tome are replete with many waterfalls, all of which are embedded in a dreamy environment of lush forests.

Cascata Sao Nicolau waterfall

The most popular and frequently visited waterfall is the Cascata Sao Nicolau (St. Nikolaus waterfall), which is reasonably accessible from the main road. This beautiful waterfall, which is about 60 metres high, is hidden by dense vegetation in the middle of a dense forest.

The waters are not so thundering, but its setting is enchanting, surrounded by lush greenery and unique tropical flowers. 

The clear waters flowing through the green forest not only refresh the surroundings but ultimately end up as rivulets, providing much-needed running water to the communities in the area. 

The gateway to this waterfall is through the famed Roca Monte Café, which is the oldest coffee plantation in São Tomé. This converted coffee museum, situated in the old plantation site, stands testimony to the time (1850) when arabica coffee was grown in substantial quantities for export. 

Roca Monte Café. Photo Credit: Unsplash

The museum offers an interesting glimpse of the entire chain of coffee processing in the manner it was done during the 1850s. 

A coffee trail through thick coffee plantations leads up to the Cascata Sao Nicolau. On the trail, it is common to see local boys and girls selling freshly plucked berries from the area in a banana leaf to visitors. 

Vale Do Rio Waterfall

The Vale do Rio Waterfall (Valley of a river) is located about 15 km from Monte Café. This tall waterfall in the depth of the forest is accessed after a moderately challenging 15 km trek. It passes through some of the country’s most fascinating tiny villages, narrow paths and dense cocoa plantations. It is also punctuated with small farms of porcelain rose and honeycomb flowers. 

Though the trek is long, it is easy to get overwhelmed by a sense of nostalgia for the coffee and cocoa plantations of the colonial period. The sounds of the many small water cascades and rivulets in the vicinity accompany the visitor until the trail’s end. 

Bombain and Angolares waterfalls

The Bombain waterfalls are in the centre of some of the untouched primary forests of the world, located in close proximity to the others in the area. Not as tall as the San Nicolau Cascate, it is deeper and surrounded by the lush greenery of the rainforest in the tiny village of Bombain. 

The Angolares waterfalls, on the rugged Southwestern coast of Sao Tome, are one of the best waterfalls in the country. At 17 meters tall, it is easy on the eye. It is different from the others as it is located between two water tunnels on a friendly mountain trail.

Other waterfalls in Sao Tome

While Sao Tome and Principe are known for their natural beauty and biodiversity, travelling deep inside the country offers some fascinating insights into the local culture of community life in these regions, which is wholly authentic. Small houses, fenced by tin sheets and thick shrubs located inside the plantations, punctuate the entire region. 

The scene is completed by villagers carrying water from nearby natural water sources, community washing of clothes in the river stream by local women, chirpy children eager to engage in conversation with guests and likely making their way gaily to their schools, and vendors selling regional fruits.

There are several waterfalls in other parts of Sao Tome. The Cascata de Praia Pesqueira in the South is a unique place where the river meets the sea. The blending of the clear waters flowing from this cascade on the isle near Ribeira Peixe with the bluish turquoise Atlantic sea is a delightful sight.

Superstition surrounds the Guegue Waterfalls, one of the lost and virgin waterfalls of São Tomé Island. People somehow believe in a tradition of bathing in these cool waters in the first week of each new year to wash away the bad memories of the old year.  

The Oque Pipi waterfalls are set almost in the middle of the rainforest, not far from Sao Tome’s premier cocoa plantations that produce the most famous chocolates of Sao Tome.  

Oque Pipi waterfalls. Photo Credit: Multiple sources

Though not common, some waterfalls can be found entirely underground within cave systems. Access to such subterranean waterfalls is usually through rugged walkways. Not many tourists would like to undergo a gruelling trek to reach them.

The numerous wild water cascades of Sao Tome are a welcome getaway and escape from daily city life. But several of them are either hidden or inaccessible because of the wild terrain of Sao Tome. Unlike in other countries, a visit to any of these falls involves quite a bit of trekking through dense vegetation and plantations, but in the end, the grind is rewarding.

Also Read: Ilhéu das Rolas: The Equator Island of Sao Tome

The Quiet Women Revolution in Sao Tome

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: Although living on a balmy island may conjure up images of an idyllic lifestyle, it is clear that Sao Tome and Principe are fragile. Women in Sao Tome and Principe face societal and structural obstacles to their development, just like in other developing nations, particularly in Africa.

Even though Sao Tome and Principe’s constitution guarantees equal rights for men and women in key areas like political participation, access to basic education, and business and entrepreneurial activity, the average Sao Tomean woman still faces discrimination from the wider community.

Having descended from the white colonists and African population of the slave trade, who settled in the then uninhabited islands in the late 15th century, the minority descendants of African plantation workers from the first half of the 20th century have largely assimilated themselves into Creole culture. 

On the other hand, the Angolares, who were descendants of a maroon community of the 16th century, constitute a distinct sociocultural group.

Their societal mores and traditional conventions drawn from their backgrounds continue to prevent many women from reporting incidents of abuse or resorting to taking legal action. 

Speaking out against injustice and discrimination within families is still largely taboo. After its independence in 1975 from Portugal, Sao Tome has not been able to establish institutions for university education, which has acted as a deterrent to women’s empowerment. 

Numerous cultural norms from their colonial past still influence their current societal orientation. Even though Christianity makes up 80% of the population, tribal African beliefs frequently coexist with Christianity.

Under the kinship system, descent and inheritance are passed through both father and mother but are kept distinct. 

Polygamy in Sao Tome and Principe

The conventional conjugal bond is the customary union, but formal marriages are not common in Sao Tome and are only practised by the educated elite. 

Polygamy is a common practice where a man’s many wives never live together in the same residence. Local society tends to view polygyny as almost a normal condition. 

It is quite common that a legally wedded man is also romantically involved with several other women. The man ends up being financially strained and unable to take care of his own family. Consequently, one sees several households being headed by women.

The family law in Sao Tome and Principe sets the minimum legal age for becoming a major at 18 years, but still, about 20 per cent are married by the age of 15 years, mostly to men who are at least a decade older. Only half of the girl students go on for higher studies, while the rest end up in marriages, becoming mothers at an early age.

On average, a woman has five children, but it is interesting that high status is attached to women who bear children, regardless of their paternity. Co-parenting with the active participation of godparents is not uncommon. 

Though Sao Tome society is not matriarchal, mothers play a guiding role in ensuring that a parent or relative raises children during an economic crisis. 

Older men and women tend to be treated with great respect, particularly if they have many children and grandchildren. Entry into a person’s home is a privilege. Acquaintances often converse on the street or across a garden hedge rather than enter a house or yard.

After the 1990s, several government and non-governmental campaigns and liberal governmental legislation guaranteed legal equality between the sexes and officially promoted the emancipation of women. As a result, women in Sao Tome and Principe enjoy a relatively better position in society as compared to women in other parts of Africa. 

Women driving social and economic change

In the last 50 years, the female population for Sao Tome and Principe increased several folds to reach 111,585 persons (half the population of Sao Tome), which is significantly higher than in 1978, when it was just 40,000. The sex ratio of the population is almost equal.

But what has largely gone unnoticed is that women in Sao Tome are quietly driving social and economic change in Africa’s smallest nation in the last two decades. Although São Tomé and Príncipe is a male-dominated society, women are increasingly playing critical roles in all major formal and informal institutions. 

For several years after independence, the president of the National Assembly and the minister of foreign affairs were women. In 2002, Maria das Neves was appointed the country’s Prime Minister. She held the post from 7 October 2002 until 18 September 2004 and was the nation’s first female head of government. The country has also had many women occupying ministerial positions.

Maria das Neves. Photo Credit: Multiple sources

Almost 17 per cent of the total population of Sao Tome and Principe is involved in the fish business, where women are involved in several activities, such as unloading the boats, direct purchases from fishermen and fish processing. 

Women working at Sao Tome’s fishing village. Photo Credit: Twitter

More women than men are engaged in socio-economic activities like conservation, poverty alleviation or dealing with tropical diseases.

In a typical household, women manage their money independently of their husbands. Marriage to a woman with land or other property does not give the husband automatic access or control over those resources. The country has more than 30 per cent of female employment relative to the population ratio, while women represent 41% of the workforce.

Several factors contribute to this ongoing positive transformation of women’s daily lives in Sao Tome. One major reason is due to intermarriages with foreigners. They have given rise to a mixed-race generation with no single cultural heritage. This has led to liberal cultural perspectives resulting in a broader mental outlook, including toward the role of women in their society. 

The role of social media in the country has also helped to catalyze this trend. The gradual opening up of the tourism sector has witnessed more foreign visitor arrivals, which has positively impacted the local economy as well the mental makeup of the society.  

Another factor is the growing engagement and integration of Sao Tome in the global economic system, with assistance from international organizations.

A critical development is that the increased female participation in local politics has added good value to the democratization of national politics of the country.

As a result, it is heartening to see more and more women entering areas like politics, business, culture, hospitality, tourism, entrepreneurship etc.

The progressive legislation enacted by the Government of Sao Tome in July 2022 allocates a minimum of 40% of seats for women in elected bodies and the cabinet. This is a shot in the arm for the hardworking women force of Sao Tome.

Also Read: Ilhéu das Rolas: The Equator Island of Sao Tome

Ilhéu das Rolas: The Equator Island of Sao Tome

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: The charming island nation of Sao Tome and Principe is one of the few places in the world where the Equator passes.

The other 12 countries are Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Gabon, Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Uganda, Kenya, Somalia and Indonesia. In Maldives and Kiribati, it passes through their territorial waters.

Equator Island

In Sao Tome, the Equator runs right through the Islet of Ilhéu das Rolas, located a few miles from its southern tip, before proceeding eastward to the continent of Africa. Also known as ‘Equator Island’ or the ‘Island of Turtledoves’, it is located at an elevation of over 300 feet above sea level.

The Portuguese cartographer proved this, and navigator Gago Coutinho visited São Tomé somewhere between 1915 to 1918. During his scientific expedition to map the island, he proved that latitude zero indeed crossed Ilhéu das Rolas instead of passing between the islet and São Tomé, as had been previously supposed.

The island is just two square kilometres and is a mere 6 degrees longitude of the Prime Meridian line. It is also the nearest land mass to the coordinates 00N 00E.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The main symbolic attraction of the island is a small monument erected in 1936 that marks the geodesic point on the Equator. A beautiful marker in the form of a stone structure and a tile mosaic map of the world on the ground underneath the monument signifies the location of the equatorial line crossing. Between April and August, the monument’s shadow points South West, implying the sun is several degrees North.

I experienced the sensation of being at the centre of the earth while standing on the imaginary line 0, with one foot in the Northern and the other in the Southern hemisphere. A body’s weight is said to be reduced by less than a kilo on the northern side due to the gravitational inflexion at that location. I didn’t have a way to check this.

From a purely geologically standpoint, Sao Tomeans are proud of their geothermal heritage and consider their country the centre of the world. But living in this acutely insulated, albeit beautiful, island nation, I could hardly feel that centrality in a broader sense. 

Typical of all the places touched by the Equator elsewhere, locals say that, here too, both sunrises and sunsets happen in a matter of minutes. 

Apart from the thrill of standing in different hemispheres, a belvedere provides stunning and panoramic 360-degree views of the Lama-Porco and Francisco volcanic peaks, surrounding pristine beaches, fishing villages and the lush Sao Tome island at a near distance.

A lighthouse on the islet, built in 1929 and measuring 100 feet, serves as a vantage viewing point for passing vessels and, occasionally, dolphins. The Pestana Equador resort on the island is a monopolistic business entity and, therefore, the largest employer.

This satellite resort islet is populated by less than 150 residents whose lives are linked to foreign tourists. Some, though, depend on subsistence farming and fishing. 

The only way to reach this islet is through a ferry from the fishing village of Port Alegre on the southernmost tip of mainland Sao Tome. The ride is just 20 minutes and is best remembered for the magical views of the mighty Atlantic, the cool volcanic cones at a distance and sandy, windswept beaches awaiting the destination. 

Although its distance to land might be near, the short boat ride is an adventure. The 20-minute boat ride feels longer and sometimes risky due to massive, deep waves, especially when the sea gets choppy, challenging the rickety canoes. These waters are sometimes home to humpback whales which circle the island between July and October. 

A popular walking trail in the village leads to a lush green forest that holds the equator point, a botanical garden, a fishing village, a banana plantation and rows of almond tree clusters. 

As a rare geological landmark, the journey to this centre of the world has become a mandatory stop for most visitors. At least, its symbolism is undoubtedly an instagrammable place to be.

Also Read: The Stunning Blue Lagoon of Sao Tome

Sustainability or Self Reliance: The Agricultural Dilemma of Sao Tome 

SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: The islands of Sao Tome and Principe, off the Gulf of Guinea in West Africa, are endowed with some of the world’s most fertile tropical soils. The agricultural sector plays a pivotal role in the economic destiny of these islands, accounting for about 20% of the country’s GDP, 70% of its export income and employing 50% of the population.

The Prime Minister of Sao Tome once famously said, “Agriculture is at the very heart of São Tomé and Príncipe; it is not just economical, it is also cultural, with cocoa remaining the most important export product.”

Lack of sustainable agriculture in Sao Tome

Historically dependent on its agriculture sector, these volcanic islands produce a variety of high-quality agricultural produce, such as cocoa, coffee, fruits, vanilla, pepper and palm oil.

Though blessed with excellent conditions for tropical agriculture like fertile volcanic soil, plenty of flowing water, a yearlong conducive climate and a longish growing season, the agricultural economy of Sao Tome is still confined mainly to plantation agriculture, especially cocoa.

Sao Tome is pursuing a policy of actively promoting the production and export of a handful of its high-quality products. As a country that depends mainly on foreign aid and has a small production base, it has put faith in its premium products, especially cocoa. Other niche products are coconut oil, palm oil, pepper and vanilla, all of which are exported.

Over the years, as a matter of conscious policy, Sao Tome has allowed a few select foreign companies to invest in the plantations of these crops. The results, though, have been mixed.

Foreign companies such as AGRIPALMA (palm), Efraim (coffee), Valúdo (coconuts), Claudio Corallo (cocoa) and vanilla (vanilla) have followed a unique policy of developing a chain of local producers and farmers to harvest high-quality products.

Photo Credit: Pexels

Since the current focus is not so much on volumes and expansion of the plantations, it has enabled farming communities to increase their living standards, makes commercial cropping sustainable, and simultaneously conserves the islands’ natural wealth.

Under this “local and solidarity-based manufacturing”, factories have been built in the plantations themselves to produce on-site products using freshly harvested crops. They believe this production chain has been developed to create high-quality products such as chocolates, coconut oil, vanilla sticks, palm oil or coffee while adhering to their wealth sharing and nature preservation objectives.

Sao Tome exports about US$ 8 million of cocoa products, mostly high-end chocolates and cocoa powder, to the West. This number is minuscule, but it constitutes almost 50 per cent of the country’s total merchandise exports.

Sao Tome and Principe is called the ‘chocolate islands’. Photo Credit: Pixabay

Having lived in Sao Tome for more than a year, I can say with conviction that the cocoa of Sao Tome is of unmatched quality and much sought after by major chocolate manufacturers in USA and Europe, including Cadburys. Their local chocolates also are of exceptional quality. Quite conscious of its high quality, the local government is betting on producing organic cocoa for a niche market. In a sense, cocoa exports have become a cornerstone of a country’s trade policy, so dependent on foreign currency to finance its imports.

The organic Sao Tomean coffee is also of exquisite quality and being produced as a family business. Their smooth arabica is peerless, great value for money, but expensive. Like cocoa, high-quality coffee is processed on a limited scale only.

A French-Belgian company produces various coconut products, including oil, flour, soap and dried fruit, but only on a limited and sustainable basis. I have used the local coconut oil in daily cooking; its quality and flavour are of the highest quality.

Palm oil is fast emerging as the new main export product of Sao Tome, accounting for about 30 per cent of the country’s exports. Pepper and tropical flowers are also increasingly produced in tiny quantities for export to Europe.

Palm oil is fast emerging as the new main export product of Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Pexels

An Italian company is collaborating with a handful of local farmers and using high technology and the locals’ generational knowledge to grow vanilla. Launched in 2019, exports of vanilla pods, vanilla essence and vanilla rum have been rising.

There is potential for processing local products from local tropical fruits such as jackfruit, guava, pineapple, bananas, breadfruit, cocoyam, and cassava.
There is no doubt that Sao Tome’s organic coffee and cocoa command a premium because of their perceived high quality. But despite the hype, Sao Tome’s farming opportunities are largely untapped. There is no tradition or precedent for mass production in this country. It is all about quality and sustainability.

Much of the agricultural land belongs to the state. About two-fifths of the total land area is under cultivation, of which 2/3rd is used for planting cocoa trees. Coconut and coffee plantations occupy the rest. Sizable plantation areas continue to be poorly maintained, except during harvest time. Other challenges are high levels of unemployment along with critical labour shortages.

The seaport and the only airport lacks adequate cold storage facilities to maximize exports. The tiny market size and profitability issues are other challenges. All these factors have conspired toward declining agricultural production on these islands. Ironically, for a country trying to position itself as a premium source market for its niche products, Sao Tome has never been self-sufficient in staple foodstuffs like rice, sugar, edible oils, etc., which it continues to import.

But one cannot ignore the fact that the land is very fertile, and the weather is conducive to harvesting tropical products. Along with the tourism sector, the agricultural sector has the potential to become the major driver of the economy of Sao Tome and Principe.

The question for the policymakers would be: Should they persist with low volume and high-end export products for precious dollars to finance their imports, or shift to mainstream farming of staples like food grains to become self-sufficient?

Also Read: Exploring Sao Tome’s Unique Culinary Traditions

The Stunning Blue Lagoon of Sao Tome

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SAO TOME and PRINCIPE: The Lagoa Azul (“blue lagoon”) is one of the most stunning places on the charming island of Sao Tome, located off the coast of Guinea. 

Located about an hour’s drive from Sao Tome city, this tiny bay is known for its sparkling blue waters and pristine greenery around it. 

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The lagoon is part of the Obo National Park of São Tomé, but is located on the outer periphery and therefore, easily accessible by road.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

There are innumerable beaches in Sao Tome, but the blue lagoon stands out. Swimming a few metres into these water waters on a bright day with blue skies, I was overcome by a surreal feeling of being surrounded by a sea of pure light blue.

There are several interesting aspects to this lagoon. A delightful thing about the lagoon is that it displays different hues at different points. The first few metres are pure blue colour, which can be attributed to their purity as it reflects the blue sky on a perfectly clear day. 

The next two kilometres or so, are turquoise, which is due to the green algae underneath. The warm turquoise waters then melt into the mighty grey of the Atlantic.

This spot is immensely popular with adventurous tourists for diving and snorkelling. The meeting point of the warm turquoise waters and grey Atlantic waters is also the playground of groups of dark grey dolphins, which can see frolicking and have fun. Such tourists snorkel up to this spot to get close to these playful dolphins.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

There is a lighthouse near the bay, which serves as a looking post for passing vessels and illegal fishing boats and poachers. The guards monitor round the clock to protect the marine wealth of Sao Tome in these rich breeding grounds from illegal fishing. Their vigilance from this vantage point also keeps the revellers safe. 

The lighthouse was designed and built by the Marinha de Guerra Portuguesa, and is Portuguese maritime department in 1997 and is now maintained by the Ministry of Defense of the Democratic Republic of São Tomé and Principe.

It is located on top of a hillock. A short hike up the hill presented me with an astounding view of the entire bay. I could clearly see the different layers of colours in these waters. This was also a perfect spot for photography and drone shots.

From this high spot, I was incredibly lucky to witness dozens of dark grey dolphins moving languidly through the turquoise waters. As they approached the Atlantic, they seem to change gears, leaping and diving. I got the impression that they were competing with each other or engaged in a fun race. 

Access to the pinnacle of the lighthouse is through a small balcony at the top of the tower. A photovoltaic solar panel is installed there to ensure that the lighthouse operates on autopilot for most of the time.

As I descended from the hillock and headed away from the beach, I found the shoreline covered with rounded boulders of vesicular basalt, what seemed like crystals of calcite. Those shiny, multicoloured and multilayered pebbles are interesting pieces of adornment or decoration in a garden.

At the far edge of the beach, there is usually a carnival type of atmosphere. Lots of Sao Tomeans and tourists hang out, looking at the local handicrafts, listening to the local calypsos and enjoying the local banana fries and roasted fish.

The blue lagoon is an authentic reflection of the enchanting islands of Sao Tome and Principe. As with the whole nation, there is nothing cosmetic about this place.

Also Read: Exploring Sao Tome’s Unique Culinary Traditions